In the dynamic gastronomic landscape of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Hikari emerges as an establishment that not only follows trends but sets them. Under the direction of David Rivero, the restaurant is experiencing a moment of maturity, endorsed by the Michelin Guide and boasting an increasingly defined culinary identity: pure, precise Japanese cuisine, intrinsically linked to local produce.
Its omakase offering is positioned as one of the most solid in the archipelago. The menu is a culinary journey where the flavors of the Canarian sea take center stage, and rice, the essential element, achieves remarkable technical perfection and sensitivity.
The journey begins with a Japanese bento, featuring four creations that serve as a statement of intent. From the simple yet addictive edamame with toasted sesame, to an Amélie oyster with ponzu, a prawn gyoza inspired by chili crab, and a delicate Japanese cracker topped with tuna belly. These are complemented by their signature eggplants, a dish that evolves while maintaining a balance between tradition, product, and a contemporary touch.
The menu continues with fluidity. The sashimi of Canarian blackmedial (medregal) underscores the commitment to the local environment, offering clean cuts and a deep flavor. However, it is in the sequence of nigiris that Hikari truly unfolds its potential. Highlights include a reinterpretation of the Gilda with mackerel from Tenerife, an impeccable flambéed salmon, and the elegance of rock samas (sama roquera), a local rockfish, served with white truffle pâté.
The scallop with yuzu butter adds creaminess and freshness, while the surprising fried rice nigiri with wagyu steak tartar introduces a successful, disruptive element.
The climax arrives, as expected, with the toro, the noblest cut of tuna, treated with absolute respect. As a savory conclusion, a Canarian bigeye tuna (patudo) tartar with freshly prepared fried rice encapsulates the restaurant's philosophy: Japanese technique and Canarian soul.
The off-menu item, a wagyu sukiyaki with Japanese mushrooms, offers a memorable, profound, and enveloping experience.
The sweet selection maintains the high standard. The anmitsu, with homemade matcha ice cream, yuzu soup, and red bean paste, provides freshness and balance. The iconic ginger quesillo with coconut milk seals the restaurant's personal touch.
Hikari generates real anticipation, with tables booked months in advance. Securing a reservation requires constant attention to their social media, but the gastronomic reward justifies the effort.
The work of David Rivero and his team represents a solid present with a promising future. The restaurant demonstrates unlimited potential, refining its offering with each service and establishing itself as a cornerstone of gastronomy in Canarias.
