The hotel sector in the Canary Islands is taking on a crucial role in promoting and defending local produce, especially through its restaurants. A prime example is El Cenador, located in the El Mirador by Iberostar hotel in Costa Adeje, where chef Rafael de León, originally from La Laguna, offers a culinary proposal that enhances the island's products and also includes a vegan menu.
Rafael de León, aged 32, recently participated in the '100 Young Gastronomy Talents' event at the Basque Culinary Center in San Sebastián. This gathering brought together young talents from the national agri-food and restaurant sectors. With the support of the Tenerife Island Council, chefs, cheesemakers, winemakers, bakers, and pastry chefs showcased the excellence of Tenerife's cuisine and products. De León's gastronomic passion stems from his family background, which is linked to agriculture.
The tasting menu 'El Garajonay' features dishes such as a 'pachanga' filled with amberjack and sea bass with Canarian pepper alioli, and a small tart of yellowfin tuna with a seaweed-cured egg yolk. This is followed by a tartare of four carefully selected tomato varieties (Mar Azul, oxheart, and Canarian), accompanied by oregano ice cream and a homemade Bloody Mary. Another notable dish is the wreckfish ceviche with confit sweet potato and pickled onion, a staple on tasting menus.
The menu continues with a robust squid stew ravioli, featuring a broth reduced for 24 hours, paying homage to traditional family cooking. The wreckfish, cooked to perfection, is served with cilantro infusion, 'gofio de millo' escaldón, and pico de gallo. The off-menu selection includes a scarlet shrimp from La Santa, Lanzarote, with a sauce made from its own heads, Iberian pork, and black pig, served with mashed potatoes and paprika oil – a true surf and turf delight.
To conclude, black pig is served over a 'puntalette' risotto (rice-shaped pasta) and smoked cheese with mushrooms from La Esperanza. For dessert, a black potato 'coulant' with white chocolate sauce, alongside mango and passion fruit textures, completes a well-executed offering.
